Sunday School

WINE

(Orange Wine) Hybrid White Blend “Member When?” Usonia, ’24

Finger Lakes, NY

In the cool, lake-shaped landscapes of the Finger Lakes, Usonia is part of a new wave of growers exploring what hybrid grapes can do when treated with the same care as classic European varieties. Winemakers Julia and Alex Alvarez-Perez came to wine through hospitality, meeting while working in New York City restaurants before spending years as sommeliers and managers. After harvest stints in Austria’s Burgenland and Australia’s Adelaide Hills, they returned to the East Coast and founded Usonia in 2019. By 2021 they were farming their own Finger Lakes vineyard, now planted to Riesling and Cabernet Franc.

“Member When?” is an orange wine built from roughly equal parts Geneva White #2 and Verdelet, two hybrid grapes that flourish in this climate. Each variety is handled a little differently. The Geneva White #2 sees a short carbonic maceration before pressing and rests in FlexTank, while the Verdelet is foot crushed, macerated for a few days, and aged in a large neutral oak cask. After aging separately for about eight months, the wines are blended and bottled.

The result is an autumnal, spicy orange wine with chewy, tea-leaf tannins, juicy stone fruit, and a hint of native grape musk. It is textured yet vibrant, the kind of bottle that feels both experimental and deeply rooted in place, perfect for curious drinkers who enjoy something just a little off the beaten path.

$14 glass   •   $11 glass

CHEESE

Petit Prefere de nos Montagnes

Jura, France · Cow–P

Although stinky cheeses can seem a bit intimidating at first sniff, their bold aroma is actually part of what makes them so unique and delicious. Cheeses like Taleggio, Époisses, and Appenzeller get their strong scent from friendly bacteria that grow on their rinds as they age. Cheesemakers “wash” the outside with brine, beer, wine, or liquor which encourages certain microbes to thrive.

Petit Prefere is only lightly washed, giving it a subtle, approachable aroma. Unlike most washed-rind cheeses that get their color from the bacteria growth, this rind is tinted with annatto for a mild flavor and warm orange glow. Aged for just six days, it stays fresh, light, and far less pungent than many traditional washed-rind cheeses. Inside, the paste is creamy and brie-like, offering a smooth texture with savory notes balanced by a milky, hazelnut sweetness. We think Petit Prefere is the perfect little stepping stone into the wonderfully funky world of washed-rind cheeses.

$9  •   $6