Sunday School

WINE

Gamay, Chiroubles, Domaine de la Grosse Pierre, ’23

Beaujolais, France

This joyful bottle comes from Domaine de la Grosse Pierre, a family-run estate perched in Chiroubles, the loftiest of the Beaujolais crus. With vineyards dancing around 400 meters above sea level, this is Gamay in high-def; bright, lifted, and full of alpine charm. The 2023 vintage comes from old vines rooted in granite soils, farmed organically and treated with the kind of gentle touch that shows in every sip. Fermentation is classic Beaujolais: semi-carbonic maceration with native yeasts and a light hand in the cellar to keep the fruit front and center. What does it taste like? Fresh red berries tossed with crushed violets, a sprinkle of white pepper, and a whiff of cool mountain air. The palate is juicy but not jammy, with silky tannins and a finish that practically asks what you’re doing later. This Chiroubles pairs beautifully with any cheese board situation, or a meal that begs for more sparkle. It’s the kind of wine that turns casual evenings into mini celebrations. Pure, playful Gamay from a cru that knows how to keep things light on its feet.

$15 glass   •   $11 glass

CHEESE

Fourme d’Ambert

Auvergne, France · Cow-R

Don’t fear the rind! Revered French blue Fourme d’Ambert can look a little imposing, but it’s really a gentle giant. The tall cylinders wear a rough gray-brown rind that might evoke a fairy-tale monster to the untrained eye but is actually the product of months of artful affinage, or cheese aging. Tucked quietly away in its cave – literally, though cheese caves are more aerated, humid cellar than ogre dwelling – the rind protects a creamy, blue-streaked paste inside that’s redolent of roasted nuts and even ripe fruit. Although the big blue veins are prominent to the eye, they’re subtler on the palate, lending character to the buttery smooth cheese. Perfectly salted, it’s an unassuming competitor to other top-notch French blues. (In other words: watch your back, Roquefort; the gentle giant is coming for your throne.)

$9  •   $6